Tuesday 25 February 2014

Types of Dog Toys Available

For a dog, a toy is a substitute prey item, an important thing like food. Even though it looks funny when your dog plays, to your dog it isn't meant to be funny but the expression of some extremely serious and survival linked behavior. So, get the best toys for your puppy/dog.
There are as many different dog toys as a person or dog could imagine. You will find a very large selection of toys if you go to your local pet store or look at a printed or online catalog. Generally, dog toys are classified into three different ways: chew toys, play toys and food dispensing toys. Let's see each type individually.
Chew Toys
Toys in this category are the first and foremost designed to be eventually edible. They also fulfill a secondary purpose of dental care, cleaning teeth or massaging gums and teeth. This secondary purpose makes them especially useful with a teething puppy. They usually come in a selection based upon the dog's age and size. For instance: a chew toy for Bernard puppy would be different size than a chew toy for Dachshund puppy. It is imperative that you find the correct size of chew toy for your dog because a Bernard puppy could easily choke on a chew toy designed for a Dachshund. These types of toys would include rawhides, Nylabones and Greenies.
Play Toys
The primary purpose of toys in this category would be for play and to be thrown and retrieved by the dog or the owner. Examples would be squeaky toys, tennis balls, flying discs and dumbbells for water retrieval. Usually these toys are durable and designed for different size mouths. However, they're not made to be chew toys, and, thus, should not be left alone with a dog. Because the skins of a tennis ball can be torn off easily, chewed and swallowed, and a squeaky toy can be de-squeaked by the dog pulling out the plug at the bottom of the toy or by chewing through the fabric of the toy itself to remove the plastic squeaker. Both these examples can be deadly to a dog if swallowed.
Food Dispensing Toys
This is a newest category of toys that has been developed within the last five to ten years. Without the food in them, they can also fall in both chew and play toy's category. With food stuffed or frozen inside, they fulfill a type of babysitter and entertainer role that goes beyond the chew or play toy, in short, it also acts as dog treats. Examples of these types of toys would be Kongs, sterilized bones and Buster Cubes. These toys are great for dogs with separation anxiety and can be given to the dog when the owner leaves, thus changing the dog's focus from, "why are you leaving me alone again?" to "Hurry up and leave so I can have my Buster Cubes."
And before ending the article, here is a small suggestion, be sure to supervise your dog when it is with the toy and play along when possible to make it a prefect bonding time as well.

Wednesday 19 February 2014

How Intelligent is Your Dog????????


It is entirely normal to look for signs of intelligence in your dog. Even puppies that are not especially smart nonetheless display flashes of brilliance in their behavior.
And it is also very normal to look for the same things in our pets that we look for in our children, like a keen mind, a sense of humor and loyalty. But the trait that we tend to brag about the most is actually our dog's intelligence.
There is not really a single type of canine intelligence. According to Stanley Coren, writer of 'The Intelligence of Dogs', there are several types of dog intelligence that can be measured by canine IQ tests...
The first one is named Adaptive Intelligence. This relates to learning and problem solving capability, the knowledge and skills a dog can acquire. It also pertains to how much time it takes for your dog to learn new a relationship.
As an example, if your dog recognizes people after just one or two visits, this indicates a good adaptive intelligence capability. You might also look at how well your dog comprehends the laws of cause and effect by observation.
The next type is Instinctive Intelligence, which simply deals with behaviors and skills programmed into the animal's genetic code. For example, Sheep dogs and Border Collies are superb herding dogs. This is an innate ability that these breeds of dogs have and has little to do with training.
The third type is Working/Obedience Intelligence, which involves the ability of an animal to follow commands. This type of intelligence is primarily dependent on the actual breed of the dog. Two examples are the dogs used for guiding the blind and for K9 police work.
Another type is Adaptive Intelligence. At a time of the day that you do not usually walk your dog, pick up your keys and his leash when you know he's watching. If he starts wagging his tail and gets excited, 3 points. If you have to walk to the door before he knows what's going on, two points. If he sits there with a dumbfounded look, give him one point.
Now if your dog lets YOU know it is time to go to the bathroom by bringing you his own leash (without being trained to) or has mastered the toilet, your dog is truly a genius!
One way to test your dog's problem solving ability is to take a sizeable towel (or a blanket will do fine as well) and toss it over your dog's head. If he frees himself from the covering in less than fifteen seconds, give him three points. If it takes fifteen to thirty seconds, two points. If it takes him longer than thirty seconds, give him or her a single point.
To check your dog's memory, Place some sort of treat under one of three buckets that are lined up in a row. And be sure that your dog sees which bucket the treat is under. Turn the dog away for about ten seconds or so and then let him go. If he or she goes straight to the bucket with the treat under it, three points. If it takes two tries to find the treat, two points. If he/she checks the wrong two first before finding the right one, one point.
Now if your dog scores six points or more, you have a canine genious; four to five points is average; three points or less, well...who said that intelligence was a prerequisite for love?

How to Build a Dog House for Your Puppy


So you'd like to know how to build a dog house? Well, that means we're talking to less than 50% of all dog owners. Why? Because current survey information at OpinionTrone says most dog owners (over 50%) allow their pets on the family couch. Furthermore, if you allow your pet on the couch, chances are that you do not HAVE a dog house!
But for those of you who do, there are really good things to remember about how to build a dog house:
1. Any good how to build a dog house plan should begin by making sure the house is big enough to accommodate your dog's ultimate grown-up size. You would not like to live in a house whose ceiling was below your head height--neither would your dog. Most humans like about 2 feet of air above themselves in a room in order to live without feelings of claustrophobia! That comfort zone is about 1/3 of their standing height. Allow your pet the same airiness. Figure out how tall it will stand as a mature pet and make sure the ceiling of the dog house is 1/3 again taller!
2. Raise the house a few inches off the ground to allow air and water to flow beneath. Ventilation is important for the health of your dog and to dissuade pests from invading its home. A few nickel-sized holes in the walls under the eaves should be sufficient. Install a wind block inside the house so the dog can use the heat of its own body to warm up the area if it is really cold and windy outside. Any good plan for how to build a dog house will have a house big enough so that a partial wall will allow the dog to escape the elements. The dog can choose whether to just sleep in the entry room or go around the inner archway maze wall into the inner sanctum. Both areas could have bedding or a pillow, such as one filled with cedar chips to discourage fleas.
3. Make the floor just the littlest bit slanted toward the doorway. Any good "how to build a dog house" plan will make certain that any rain that does enter via the ventilation holes or doorway automatically drains out. Make sure that the roof is built at a slant, as well, for obvious run-off reasons. Do not paint the inside of the house, but do make sure that the house is well insulated.
4. Make sure the dog house faces away from the major storm direction. In the U.S., most storms come from the south and west. Not all, mind you, but most! So most how to build a dog house plans will suggest that the ideal placement of a dog house door is to the east. That way, even in the wintertime, the cold north wind will not whip inclement weather into the dog's entryway.
5. Finally, almost all how to build a dog house plans will have you put hinges on the roof of the house for easy cleaning. When you clean the dog, you should clean its house and bedding--just as faithfully as you would wish your pet to be to you!

Sunday 16 February 2014

Playing Games With Your Dog


Playing games with your dog can provide great benefits for both you and your dogs. Unfortunately, many people don't spend nearly enough time playing with their pets each day. They miss out on the fun of playing games with their dog and don't realize how relaxing and enjoyable it can be.
Playing games with your dog is also great for your dog if he has any problems with boredom or anxiety. Dogs are different from people. It's not hard to keep a dog active and busy. If you give a pet something to do and keep them busy, your dog will be happy. Ideally, if your dog spends time playing then it will help him use up some of his extra energy.
A simple game of fetch or time spent searching for hidden treats can keep your pet busy and use up lots of energy. Games such as these also require a lot of your dog's mental energy. That means that these games will keep your dog's attention and keep them entertained for quite a while.
Choosing the Right Games
No matter what kind of dog you have, there are lots of games you can play together to keep them happy and entertained. Games will also help the two of you bond and enjoy each other's company. Here are some of the most popular doggy games, and some of the best for keeping your dog happy and having a good time:
* Fetch: Fetch is a wonderful game to play with your dog. Some dogs, especially retrievers, will make you play this game non-stop. If you're playing fetch with your pet you should try to control the session and control when your dog stops. Hide the toy (perhaps on a shelf) or give a command so your dog knows when it's time to stop the game. You may be able to distract your dog with a treat or switch to another game.
* Hide and Seek: Hide and seek is an easy game to play and it's fun for dogs. All you have to do is hide from your dog and call your dog to find you. When your dog finds you, you should become very excited to let you dog know he's done a great job. Then you can make the game harder by hiding in spots that are harder to find.
* Treasure Hunt: Treasure hunt is a fun game that makes a dog use his brain. You can even use toys as part of the game. To play the game you should hide treats in different places around your house, or even in toys. Then send your dog to go find the treats.
* Trick Response: You can play this game by having your dog working to do the tricks he already knows. Use whatever tricks you have taught him in the past. Make sure you teach your dog the exact phrases or commands that you're going to use in the game. Always praise and reward your dog for completing each trick. Dogs love this game, especially the praise and rewards.
* Tug of War: You can play tug of war with your dog by using a toy that is ONLY for tug of war. You also need to teach your dog the "drop it" command. You have to control the game so your dog knows to stop when you say the game is over. You can stop the game at any time by simply no longer tugging on the toy.
Dogs naturally play tug of war when they're puppies and in the wild. Even if your dog doesn't play right away, he will probably eventually catch on.
* Wrestling: Wrestling with your dog is lots of fun, especially for larger dogs. Dogs do need to wrestle gently. You will need to set boundaries for your dog. If he nips or gets too worked up you should stop playing in order to stop any unwanted behavior.
Ideally, you should make playing with your dog part of every day. It's great exercise for your dog and a great way for the two of you to bond. Taking a walk or getting other exercise is also important, but nothing takes the place of play. Playing games together can also help you teach your dog some important lessons.
Remember to have fun when the two of you play. Don't encourage any bad behaviors. And do be consistent with your dog. If you have other family members, be sure that everyone in the family knows the rules for play so your dog isn't confused.
You and your dog can have a wonderful time together. Your dog can be happy and he can have the kind of exercise that makes him tired in a good way. And you can have a good time, too.

Saturday 15 February 2014

Two Fun and Easy Tricks to Train Your Puppy


Training your dog to shake your hand on cue is a very impressive looking and fun trick. On the other hand, it is also a very easy trick to teach. Your dog will need to be able to sit on command and treats are necessary.
First command your dog into a sitting position
Take a treat in your right hand and hold it within range of your puppy's paws.
At first your puppy will just sniff at your hands but eventually he will paw at them. When this occurs, switch the treat to your other hand and then shake his paw with the hand the treat started in. Once his paw is in your hand, say shake. (Always reward the puppy with your left hand.)
After step three is consistently working, hold out your shaking hand without a treat. If your puppy still reaches out, then shake his hand, and reward afterwards.
If your dog is too well mannered to paw at your hand, than there is another way. In this method you have to reach for your dogs hand on your own and shake. After every time you shake his hand give him a treat. After a while your puppy will be more than happy to lift his paw on his own. Note: This method is not quite as effective and should only be used if necessary.
Roll over is a fun and cool trick that could be used to impress a guest. Besides that, it is easy to learn and can be taught to any puppy. The only requirements are that the puppy will already have to know the sit and down command. If you have some treats that your puppy loves, than you can get started.
First, command your puppy into the down position.
Let your puppy know you have treats by waving it around his face. Do this until his snout follows your hand.
Now guide the treat around the back of the puppy's head and to his other shoulder until he lays on his side.
(You may need to give the puppy a gentle shove down to his side if he is not doing it on his own.)
Soon after your puppy is on his side, continue the rolling motion with the treat in your hand and help your puppy roll with your other hand by pushing on his side.
After your puppy has completed the rolling motion guide him back to his feet by raising the treat up to standing level.
As soon as he stands, say roll over and give him the treat.
Do this whole process over and over. Eventually your puppy will understand the process and you won't have to pause in between when he is on his side and when he rolls. By the end you should be able to say rollover and give your puppy a light rolling motion with you hand to make him do it. (All starting from the down position of course.)

First Aid Pet Supplies to Have at Home


Caring for a pet is much like having another child. We should know not only how to feed it, but also how to administer first aid in the event that the animal requires urgent medical attention, especially if your vet's clinic is a long drive from your house. It's crucial that, as a pet owner, you know exactly what to do and how to do it when it comes to providing care if your pet is sick or gets injured.
Of course, you won't be able to do much in providing first aid to your pet if you don't have the appropriate supplies to help deal with the animal's affliction. Following is a checklist of the basic first aid supplies you need to have at home:
Gauze - This has to be one of the most basic things you can have in your medicine cabinet. It is commonly used for dressing wounds. Gauze can be used not only to wrap wounds, but also for muzzling your injured pet.
Bandages and towels - Aside from controlling bleeding, bandages can also protect wounds from the onset of infection. When choosing bandages, go for the non-stick types as wounds can be more painful when those used for wrapping wounds stick to a cut, an abrasion, or other forms of superficial injuries.
Thermometer - If we need a thermometer to determine the temperature of our child when he or she has fever, we also need it to check our pet's temperature. However, unlike with people, don't insert the thermometer in your pet's mouth. Get its temperature rectally instead. You should also get a 'fever' thermometer, as the regular kinds don't go high enough for pets.
Hydrogen peroxide - This compound is used for various applications, and one of them is helping to induce vomiting from your pet in case it is poisoned. However, you should still err on the side of safety by consulting your vet before attempting to induce vomiting.
Muzzle - You can actually make use of several items as a muzzle, from ropes to neckties to soft cloths, especially during emergency situations where a muzzle is not available. Muzzling an animal is important during situations where it needs to be restrained to prevent it from biting or barking. It is important to keep in mind, however, that you must not muzzle the animal if it's vomiting.
These are just some of the supplies you need to have at home that will come in handy during pet emergencies. It is very important that you immediately get the help of a professional in case you have no knowledge of how to administer proper first aid.

Friday 14 February 2014

Things You Should Never Feed Your Dog


Sadly, there are several household items which we tend to
take for granted that are potentially very hazardous to your
dog's health. It is especially important to be aware of this because as
you know, dogs are very much scavengers and will often eat whatever
they can sink their fangs into. I would say that may own dog is more
like a mobile garbage disposal. It is also very important to be aware of
these items
since their sense of smell is so well developed that your pooch will be
able to find what you may think is well hidden.
One of these dangerous household items, it turns out, is simple
chocolate. While chocolate has been reported recently to be high in
human-friendly antioxidants,
it appears to be potentially lethal for our pets, and particularly for
our dogs. Cats are mostly unaffected since they do not care for the
taste of chocolate, but dogs tend to
be crazy about it. Certain breeds of dogs react indifferently to
chocolate. The root of the problem is that chocolate contains various
chemicals which are called methylxanthine alkaloids(some types have more of
these chemicals than others)
Sadly, relatively minuscule amounts of these chemicals are capable of
causing such serious problems as constriction of the arteries and an
increased heart rate. Large amounts may cause even more dire symptoms and
a pound of milk chocolate could possibly kill a sixteen pound dog.
If you find that your dog has eaten chocolate then by all means take
note of the it's type and try to estimate the amount eaten. Then get on
the phone with a veternarian or an emergency facility. Be sure that your
children know how important it is to keep chocolate out of your dog's
reach.
If you are not aware that your dog has consumed chocolate, the
consequences could be severe. If consumption is not found within 4 to 6 hours
without the right treatment, cardiac failure, seizures, coma and death
could result, according to veternarian Dr. Jane Bicks.
In addition to seemingly innocent chocolate, there are a number of
other common household items that may seem safe for our dogs but that can
be downright dangerous.
Some mushrooms, for example, can produce abdominal pain, liver andd
kidney damage and amenia. So be aware of wild mushrooms when you are out
walking your dog in wooded areas. Garlic may seem benign but can cause
vomiting, liver damage, anemia and diarrhea so do not give your pet baby
food since it can contain garlic.
Anti-freeze can shut down your dog's kidney and they tend to love the
taste. Miscletoe can cause vomiting, abdominal pain and depression.
Onions can causeliver damage, anemia and diarrhea. Onion can also sometimes
be found in baby food. Cats are actually somewhat more sensitive to
this one so keep out of the reach of both.
Coffee, like cocoa, is especially dangerous, and may cause heart rate
increase, diarrhea, seizures, coma, death. Caffeine just does not have
the same effect in dogs.
When outside be careful around apple and cherry trees. While the fruit
is safe, the leaves and roots are not.
And be very careful about Moth Balls. it's primary chemical naphthalene
is extremely toxic to dogs and can result in tremors and seizures.
Concerning dog food, you should be looking for dyes
and other chemicals, according to Dr. Jane
BHA, for instance, which is one of the main synthetic
antioxidant preservatives used to prevent food
discoloration, has been observed to cause cancer in laboratory
rats at certain doses. Small doses are as yet unclear but since dog
food is eaten every day caution is advised.
Many conventional dog food brands have large quantities of sodium to
make them palatable, and this can be quite harmful to a dog.
Other ingredients to wary of are dairy, by-products, chemical
preservatives and artificial colors.

5 Causes Of Aggression In Your Dog



As a dog trainer one thing that I'm seeing more and more of is aggression in dogs. There are many different reasons why a dog might be aggressive and as a canine behavior specialist and trainer it's my job to figure out what that reason may be so that we can work at correcting it.
Lack of Socialization
In my opinion from what I'm seeing with most of my clients the number one reason for aggression in dogs is the lack of socialization. Most people don't realize that the period of socialization is from birth to 20 weeks. Even those clients that do realize there's a period of socialization don't do the socialization properly.
Hereditary
Another reason for aggression is possibly hereditary. Is it possible that mom and dad were overly aggressive and even more importantly how about grandmas and grandpas they are actually more important than the parents. I always tell my clients when you go to select a puppy if the owners say that you can't see mom and dad because of their aggression then pass on the puppy and find a breeder that has sociable dogs.
Lack Of Training
One huge reason for aggression that I find is a lack of training. Obedience training establishes that dog master relationship where the dog understands what's allowed and what the rules are. Without obedience training the dog will consider that he is the alpha and he can act however he pleases.
Been Allowed To Act This Way
Quite often aggression starts when a dog is a puppy and gives that first growl that the owner thinks is so cute and does not correct. Since the dog doesn't get a correction he feels that it's acceptable and what the owner wants and the aggression escalates from there. So with this type of dog, it has been allowed to act this way for a long period of time and it feels that it's actions are appropriate.
Health Issues
Last but not least is a health issue. We don't find this to be the cause very often but there's always that possibility. So when your dog is showing aggression a visit to your vet is in order to make sure he's healthy and in no pain or discomfort.
If your dog is showing any signs of aggression it should be dealt with swiftly. The best way to solve the issue is to locate a canine behavior specialist or trainer in your area that has experience with this type of problem. Quite often I have clients tell me that they felt that maybe it would go away. That is never the case aggression doesn't go away it simply gets worse.

Thursday 13 February 2014

Cats And Dogs...Can They Be Together???



Dogs are fantastic and cats are great! How are they when togethercat dog mixed This is all going to depend on the two individual animals; however there are some suggested methods to know ahead of time if the two will mix together.

It is first recommended to never get a new dog and a new cat at the same time. Not only would each animal need to get acclimated to the new house, they would need to figure out if the other is friend or foe; this is too much for a pet to handle.

Therefore, once you have a dog or a cat and that animal is a happy and content member of the family, you can then think about getting the other animal. Even if you have your eye on a certain dog or cat, it is strongly recommended to never purchase that animal until you test to see if they will mix well together.

In the best of cases, a dog and cat can be best friends. There are many families who report that their dog and cat play with each other, take naps together and even offer each other food!

However, in the worst of cases, there is an all out war. A dog, by nature and pure instinct, can see the cat as prey. This will trigger a battle that the dog has no control over and in worst cases will lead to the death of one of the animals. Once may assume it is the cat that always would lose this sad battle; however if you bring in a small toy breed such as a Chihuahua and put him together with a large cat, there is no telling what may happen.

Therefore, it is recommended to slowly introduce the dog to the cat. It will be your job to sit back a bit because the answer as to how they will get along will be to what degree they notice each other.

If they act as if the other is as interesting as a doorstop; you are in luck. They may ignore each other for now, but may become very good friends.

However, if the dog stares at the cat, this is the first sign of trouble. The more intense the stare of the dog, the more dangerous the situation can become. If the dog is looking at the cat and does not take his eyes off of her, he is deciding if she is prey or a threat.

If the dog stands still while doing this, and stares without moving his body, he may strike. If he is completely silent, does not move and the stare is strong, you must remove the cat immediately. If the dog does have this reaction, it would take an enormous amount of training for the dog and feline to get along; and this can end badly while you are attempting a pairing. It would then be suggested that that particular dog is just not a “cat person”!

Wednesday 12 February 2014

My Bond With My Four Legged Buddy



Hey friends,this is Apple,let me reveal you my story with my loving buddy pet dog,Boxer..I am the only daughter to my parents,loneliness used to be my partner .One day, I had asked my father " can i have a little brother to play with"..He smiled and said "wait till your birthday"..On my birthday,i was eagerly waiting for my surprise ,then my parents ,with a small basket ,came to my room and kept that in front of me..I was excited and very happy to see a small pup,with cute face ...I touched it softly and felt its sensitive body..With overwhelmed joy,I took it in my arms and named it BOXER..

On that day, by holding his little paw,i promised him that i would be his friend and care taker forever..From that day,we used to play together,run and howl together.As my pup grows ,happiness in my family started to grow.my pup used to wake me up in the morning.He was very intelligent and used to feel by hearing our tone.We used to go to the nearby park and play in the sand..When we had returned,our mom would be ready to give us a good bath..I would be ready to school and my buddy looks at me sadly.Then,I used to whisper in his ears that "I will be back soon and we will play again"..when,i had returned from the school,my boxer would come to me and hug me and kiss me..I used to feel so happy and it was unconditional love between us..As his friend ,i trained him all the basic instructions..The funny thing was that,he dosen't obey me,as he had considered me as his friend and my dad as his master,he obeys my father..During summer holidays we used to go to tour to other places,we never left him alone as he was one of our family members..Fun time with him was playing tug of war,hide N seek and running race...

It was his 7th birthday,he was not  as well as he used to be..My heart was aching inside to see him in that way..He got some health problem .Though we had consulted a Vet,it was no use..The Doc said ,it was too late and  he is dying..we had shocked to hear those words and couldn't able to control our tears,especially our mom ,she suffered a lot,because,it was her ,who had adopted him as her son and took the responsibility of caring him...At last we decided to act normally and give him a happy send off..I still remember his last 7 days..He used to look at us in the way that "Its time ,I should leave"..On his last day ,in the morning i said goodbye to him and left for the college..I couldn't  able to concentrate so i had returned home.Though,he was dying,he had gathered his all strength and had came out to hug me... With tears in my eyes ,i hugged him..he looked directly into my eyes and closed his eyes forever..I cried still hugging him and refused to leave him.......

Though dogs live for a short period,their love is eternal...I miss you so much buddy  .Though you are not with us now,your memories are alive..

Dog Rescue - Is it Right for You?



Ever had a hankering for a certain breed of dog? Not an obsession, mind you - not the sort of longing that would send you rushing to a breeder, thousand-dollar-bill in your sweaty palm - but just a gentle appreciation for the virtues of the Poodle, Pug or Pyrenean Mastiff?
Let's say you have -- but you thought buying a purebred pup was a less-than-ideal use of your family's resources. If that's the case, it might be time to look up your local Dog Rescue organization! Dog Rescues are organized by breed, so prospective parents can sign up to be notified when new poodles or pugs come in.
What's the advantage of adopting a rescue dog, instead of a breeder pup? A rescue dog isn't always cheaper than the breeder's (though it usually is). The main difference is this: your money equals a new life for a dog that completely lost out on his first roll of the dice.
How do I adopt a Rescue Dog?
Dog rescue organizations are volunteer-driven, and loosely organized. Your best bet is to "Google" for the one nearest you, using the breed name. So poodle lovers can search for "Poodle Rescue" or "Poodle Rescue Florida," if they live down south.
Once you find an organization, you'll want to apply as an adoptive parent. This may involve a down payment. It also usually involves a form in which you describe your history of animal ownership, and supply references. You'll provide some information on your beliefs about dog discipline, your house and yard, and where you plan to keep your newest family member.
The dog rescue foster moms and will want to talk to you in person, too, to get a feel for your compatibility with their particular pup.
What will I pay for a Rescue Dog?
On average, you'll pay between $200 and $300. If you thought "rescue" adoption was cheap, this might seem like a lot, but the fact is it simply covers basic procedures to bring the animal back to health. Most dogs arrive at the Rescue with skin problems, tartar-coated teeth, out-of-date vaccinations, possible parasites and other issues.
How will a Rescue Dog differ from a breeder or pet store dog?
In a number of ways. Your new adoptee is likely to be:
Older. Few dogs are rescued as puppies. A few are 'adolescent.' The vast majority are middle-aged.
Cautious. Your adoptee may have a lot of fear and yes, grief, to process. If he felt like a part of his former family, he may be grieving his sudden "ejection." He may need time and patience to take an interest in food, play, or his general surroundings. If he was starved or kept isolated, he'll need time and patience to learn to socialize.
"Readable." Buying a puppy means taking a wild guess at the eventual adult. When you rescue a grown dog, you get a much better idea of his personality. It's easier to make the perfect match.
Am I the right type of owner for a Rescue Dog?
An important question! You, the owner, are the last and most crucial link in a chain. The chain's only purpose is provide a "happily-ever-after" for a dog that desperately deserves one. Can you be that happily-ever-after, even for a dog that may have some rough edges?
Ask yourself these questions:
- Do I really care what color the coat is, what sex it is or how many pounds it weighs?
If so, you really want a puppy from a breeder, not a rescue. Rescue dogs rarely conform to an exact type.
- Am I looking to save money?
You may not save money buying a rescued dog, even though the initial cost could be $700 or $800 less than from a breeder. Rescue dogs often need more medical care because of the abuse and neglect they suffered before.
- Is my life relatively stable and my household relatively quiet?
All abused creatures, whether dog or human, crave and need an unusually organized household. Many people can be good parents to a rescue dog. But perhaps the best potential parent of all is an older person or couple whose children are grown, and who has time and patience to devote to the dog's mental and physical healing.
- Can I provide regular medical care and regular grooming?
The deepest wish in the heart of the Dog Rescue folks is each of their dogs never has to go through another minute of hunger, discomfort or pain again.
When dogs are starved, they sometimes have incontinence problems that heal only slowly. They may need more regular teeth cleaning than a continually cared-for dog. Some need a house training refresher when former owners didn't bother. Most were never clipped or groomed, even in the non-shedding breeds. Do you have the time and resources to keep your dog totally safe and comfortable?
- Can I consider the need and adopt a boy rescue, or an older rescue?
For reasons not entirely clear, many potential adopters go for girl dogs. There's no logic to this: all rescue dogs are spayed or neutered, and boys are as intelligent, witty, loyal, well-behaved and loving as their female counterparts. Perhaps it's just that the rescue impulse leads us to think of "damsels in distress"!
At any rate, that adorable boy that needs a home really deserves your attention. Someone less educated might pass him by for reasons they don't fully understand.
The upshot is, a rescue dog can make the best pet you've ever had. He understands exactly what you're giving him, since he didn't have it before. Your newest family member will offer you an overabundance of loyalty for the rest of his days.
How can I help with Dog Rescues?
Dog Rescues are always looking for help. Of course, they need financial contributions, and kennel and medical supplies. They also need 'foster moms' who perform the difficult task of patiently rendering a dog adoptable, then giving it up to its final owner! So if you have skills in this area and want to help, contact the small and amazing group of volunteers that make up your local Dog Rescue

Tuesday 11 February 2014

A Dog's Tale



My name is Shadrach, and I am a dog - a BIG, handsome, elegant, and intelligent dog. No, I am not vain at all, that is just what my mom always tells me so I assume it's true. I am now 4 ½ years old and live a great dog's life! I get exceptional quality food - my mom and dad believe in giving me organic food, with fresh vegetables and meat every day - so I can't complain. They're always buying me toys which I LOVE to terrorize, because that's what dogs do. I have my own big bed in my own bedroom and I love that. I have a big yard and I like to bark at and chase the pigeons and cats who dare to tread into my space.
The only thing I don't like is having to take a bath UNLESS it with the garden hose in the yard - that is great fun! The best thing is I get LOTS and LOTS of love with hugs and kisses from my mom everyday. My favorite games are tug-o-war and chase. I am the champion of tug-o-war in my house. Chase is so much fun because I am very fast and my people rarely can catch me!
The best part of my day is going to the park where I can meet up with my dog friends and people friends.
However, this great dog's life wasn't always mine. My mom and dad have no idea who my dog mom was or how I came to be with the bad people. My mom's cousin (whatever that is) rescued me from the bad people. She found out I was left alone in a dark garage to just die. The bad people didn't want to feed me or care for me anymore - not that they ever gave me much food to begin with.
Mostly, they left me alone in the yard, garage, or even a dark bathroom sometimes. My mom's cousin knows them and that is how my mom and dad know all this. The bad man hit and kicked me a lot and I don't even know why. I guess that's why I still don't like very many men. I LOVE my dad though and some other men I know from the park that live with my girlfriends. My mom's cousin took me home and fed me but I had to live with her other dogs. They didn't like me very much and beat me up every chance they got - which was usually every day! I was so skinny and little that I just couldn't fight back and it was too cold for me to be outside all the time. Thank God, my new mom and dad came and got me the week before Christmas four years ago.
They spoiled me right away. They gave me good food several times a day. My mom wouldn't let me eat a lot at once because my stomach was too little to handle a lot of food at once. I wanted to though! I kept my tail tucked between my legs while eating for a long time because I was always scared. After a while though, I knew I could just eat and it would be safe. I got my own little bed in a kennel where I could stay and feel safe at night - in the house!
Now, life is so good. I am big and strong now and tough. Men are more afraid of me now since I am so big and tough-looking. My coat is shiny and clean and not dull and dirty like before. My mom even gives me a special supplement that I suspect is a treat really. She puts it in a bowl and I drink every single drop because it is so good. My mom and dad really love me and I'm happy now. My only wish is that when people get a dog that they would take care of them and love them. Otherwise, it's better if they don't take us home with them. We depend on our people to love us and take care of us and not to hurt us. We want to live with our people forever - not just until they get bored of us. So, please, only take us home if we can always stay with just you.

Thank you, that's my story and I'm sticking to it!

5 Things You Need For A New Puppy



For a dog lover there are few things more exciting than getting a new puppy. Whether you're adopting a puppy from an animal shelter or getting a puppy from a breeder, bringing home a new "bundle of joy" is a happy day. But before you bring home your new puppy you need to plan ahead. Here are some supplies you need for a new puppy to make his homecoming go smoothly.
1. At the top of the list of supplies you need for a new puppy is your puppy's food. Puppies have a relatively delicate digestive system and it can easily be upset by switching their food suddenly. No matter where you're obtaining your puppy, make sure that you talk to whoever has been feeding him or her and find out what your puppy has been eating. In almost all cases it's best to stick with this diet for the first few days while your puppy is adjusting to your home. There will be enough excitement in your puppy's life during these days without changing his food, too. If your puppy has been growing and doing well on the food he's eating then you will probably want to stay with it. On the other hand, if your puppy has been experiencing any problems with the food - diarrhea, poor coat, not thriving - you will need to change the food slowly. Talk to your vet or experienced dog people about good foods for puppies.
2. Bowls, dishes, pans. Your new puppy will, of course, need some dish ware for his meals and a bowl for his water. Stainless steel pans are a good choice. They are easy to clean. They do have the drawback of clanging and moving around easily unless you buy bowls that are weighted on the bottom to prevent them from moving. Ceramic dishes are also a good choice. Make sure that you choose ceramic dishes that are dishwasher-safe if you have a dishwasher. You should steer clear of plastic bowls. Many dogs have a slight allergic reaction to the plastic in the bowls which can lead to bumps and pimples on their muzzles. The plastic in the bowls can also lead to "snow nose" or make your dog's nose pink instead of dark.
When choosing bowls for your dog it's best to choose a size that's appropriate to your dog's size. If you choose an extremely large bowl for your dog you may be more tempted to overfill it with food which can lead to your dog becoming overweight. If your dog has long ears you may want to get a deep bowl with a small opening at the top so your dog can't get his ears in the food.
Keep your dog's water dish filled at all times and clean it regularly. Dogs don't like dirty water any more than people do. If you have multiple dogs you may want to consider getting a small bucket for their water so you can keep it filled more easily.
3. Collar and leash. Even a young puppy will need a collar and leash. There are many different kinds of collars from which to choose but some of them are intended for training and not for everyday use. Do not allow your puppy to wear a choke chain or slip collar as his normal collar. These are training collars and some dogs - especially young puppies - can get them caught on things and choke themselves. A flat buckle collar is an appropriate collar for a young puppy. You can also use this kind of collar when you take your puppy to the vet or for walks. Nylon or leather are both fine for this kind of collar but you should remember that you probably don't want to spend a lot of money on a collar for a young puppy since you'll be replacing this collar a couple of times before your puppy is an adult dog. You can get a leash to match the collar. A six-foot leash is a good normal length for walking your dog but you will usually keep your puppy much closer to you and not let him use the full length of the leash.
When fitting your puppy's collar it should fit around his neck and you should be able to slip two fingers between the collar and your puppy's neck. Otherwise the collar is too tight. A collar that is too loose is also dangerous since your puppy can slip out of it and get loose when you're walking him.
4. Toys and chewies. Every puppy needs toys and safe things to chew on. These are not simply luxury items for your puppy! If you don't provide your puppy with toys and chewies he will absolutely begin to chew on your belongings. Give your puppy his own toys and chew things and he will be far less likely to chew on inappropriate things like your shoes, furniture and TV remotes. Give him a good selection of toys and chews. There are many great toys for dogs these days from simple stuffies to interactive toys. Chews come in all flavors and in different types: rope toys, rawhides, Nylabones, Kongs which can be stuffed with treats, and so on. Give your puppy things so he can entertain himself and he will be much kinder and gentler with your possessions.
5. Bed. Your puppy will also need a place to sleep. Even if you allow your puppy to sleep on your own bed it's also a good idea for your puppy to have his own spot. Your puppy needs a place to go where he can get away from everything. When the house gets hectic and he wants to retreat, your puppy needs a quiet place to nap. Consider getting a crate for your puppy. Crate training your puppy is always a good idea. It can help with housetraining, with transporting your puppy in your vehicle, and if your puppy ever needs to fly on a plane.
These are the basic supplies you need for a new puppy. You can have all of these supplies in place before you bring your puppy home. If you prepare for your new puppy in advance it will be that much easier for you to help him adapt to his new home.

Monday 10 February 2014

How to Teach Your Puppy His Name



It's important to remember that something as simple as your dog's name, is one of the most important skills you need to teach your dog. It's also one of the things people don't pay much attention to, assuming the dog understands it from the get go.
Teaching your dog his name is no different than teaching any other word you want your dog to respond to. Because of that, it's essential to treat it as you would any other cue (command).
Think of the first steps of training any skill as kindergarten and keep expectations realistic. Right now, all you want to do is pair the sound of "Fido" with a reward. You can practice throughout the day, especially at mealtimes - a great time to do a bit of training.
For any behaviour you need a way to tell the puppy what he did is right. We do this with a "marker", either a clicker or the word "yes" when the pup does what we want.
To teach your dog his name: The first step is to not use it. Assuming your dog understands "Fido" and all that it entails is a big training error made by many people. Ultimately, we want "Fido" to mean - when you hear that sound look at me no matter what you are doing. It's an essential first step for a rock solid recall!
To teach your puppy what "Fido" means start by preparing 10 - 20 pieces of kibble.
1) To begin, simply make a kissey sound so he turns to look at you, mark and reward when he does. Do two or three repetitions this way to get him interested in the game.
2) Next, when he is already looking at you (not when he's distracted), say "Fido", mark and reward.
Repeat this until all the pieces are gone.
Remember you are not using his name right now for anything but simply pairing it with a treat.
You will find, after a few repetitions, he will be looking at you in anticipation, especially if he's hungry.
Repeat this process at the beginning of each meal and occasionally scattered throughout the day. Don't feed his entire meal this way; we want him to enjoy his food!
3) Next, prepare your kibble or treats, do a warm up of one or two repetitions using the kissey sound to see if the puppy is ready to play the game. Do one or two repetitions when the puppy looking at you, as in #2.
4) This time, wait for the puppy to sniff the ground or glance away, say "Fido" only once! If he looks at you mark and reward. He is learning a new skill so allow a few seconds for him to turn to you. If he doesn't, make your kissey sound - mark and reward when he looks. Repeat.
If he doesn't look at and you need to get his attention with the kissey sound more than 3 times, go back to step 2. Practice that step a few more times.
It's important to avoid repeating "Fido". That's how most people end up teaching the dog to ignore his name.
5) Increase difficulty gradually. Say the pup's name when he is in an adjoining room or walking away from you.
Mark and reward as above if he looks at you. Use the kissey sound or hand clap to get his attention if he doesn't.
Then mark and reward when he does. Always reassess if you are not getting the response you want. Return to the previous level and practice some more.
Increase the level of difficulty gradually so eventually there is lots of noise and activity in the house - and he still responds when you say his name.
When you step outside the front door, back door, go on a walk, go to someone else's home, the park, it's important to remember the need to return to name training 101 - start right at step 1. Gradually build up to the response you had inside the house, with distractions.
Training Tip: if you are not sure your puppy will respond when you say his name, use the universal "puppy, puppy" in a sing song voice to get his attention. That will prevent the more common mistake of chanting the puppy's name. A sure fire way to teach him he doesn't have to respond!
Your puppy's name should always predict good things and be music to his ears!

Friday 31 January 2014

Ten Important Things Your Dog Wants You To Know




If your dog could talk, these are some of most important things she would like to tell you...
1 - My life will probably only last 7 to 14 years.
It will hurt me more than you know if I have to be away from you for longer than a day or two.
2 - If you have patience with me and give me time to learn what you would like from me, I can promise you, you will never be disappointed.
3 - Trust me with your life and have faith in our future together.
If I don't feel that you honestly believe in me, I will suffer great emotional stress. My sense of self-worth is totally dependent upon your confidence in me.
4 - Don't stay mad at me for long or confine me to a cage to punish me.
You have your friends, your job, and your recreation. I HAVE ONLY YOU!
5 - Talk to me about anything you want as frequently as possible.
Even if I can't comprehend your precise words, I can understand the meaning of what you're telling me by the tone of your voice.
6 - Remember no matter how you treat me, I will NEVER forget it.
7 - When you consider raising your hand to hit me, remember I have teeth that could break the bones in your hand, but I choose not to bite you.
8 - Before you scream at me for failing to respond to your commands as I usually do, take time to think about what might be wrong with me that would cause me to treat you differently.
Maybe I haven't been eating right or drinking enough water. Or maybe my age is catching up with me and I just can't do what I used to do.
9 - Take good care of me when I get old.
Someday you will be as old as me and you will see how it feels.
10 - Be there for me through good times and bad.
Never say you can't handle taking me to the vets for stitches or surgery. Nothing could make me feel worse. Everything in my life is easier for me to deal with when I have you standing by my side.
Remember my love for you is unconditional and it will last for your entire life

Caring for a Litter of Puppies

         Steps To Be Taken Before The Delivery Of Puppies

For those who are looking forward to their favorite companion delivering her puppies, they should be aware that quite a lot of effort will probably have to be expended for the litter to be successful. Puppies are born prematurely and are completely helpless - their eyes and ears are closed and they have only a limited ability to move.
It is possible to lose some puppies every litter but you can greatly increase the survival rate of your dog's litter if you prepare for every eventuality beforehand. Expect to spend a considerable amount of time caring for puppies, especially if the mother is unresponsive or absent.
If you have bred your female dog you will first have to prepare a nest box for her. This can be a cardboard box that will be large enough to accommodate her and the puppies. The box should be twice the size of the mama dog when she lies down. The sides should be low enough so that she can leave easily, but high enough to keep the puppies in.
A layer of newspapers should be put in the bottom of the box first, and then this should be covered with clean rags. It's a good idea to have an abundant supply of rags ready as it is inevitable that the puppies will soil the nest on a regular basis, and both mother and pups should be kept as clean as possible.
In some cases the mother will be unable or unwilling to care for the puppies, and the owner will have to take on some or all of the duties of raising the litter. Even a capable, alert mother dog will not turn up her nose at some help along the way. Before the litter arrives, the following supplies should be on hand, even if you don't ever have to use them. Canine replacement formula is available as a premade liquid or as a powdered formula. If the latter is used, use only distilled water or water that has been purified and boiled - the intestinal systems of puppies is extremely delicate and they will develop diarrhea if untreated tap water is used. Cow's milk will also give puppies diarrhea. Nursing bottles designed for newborn puppies should also be on hand.
A puppy heating pad can provide added warmth for the litter, even if the mother is present. Tiny puppies have no way of controlling their body temperature, so must be kept warm. Heating pads designed for puppies will not overheat - regular pads can become too hot and kill the puppies so be sure to use the correct ones.
Toilet tissue should be available to help the puppies go to the bathroom and to clean them up. Newborn pups need the stimulation of their mother's tongues or a moistened tissue to be able to urinate and defecate; this is a way to help keep the den clean. This should be done after every feeding and every several hours as well if the mother does not perform this duty herself.
Pasting can be a real problem; feces can accumulate on the rear end of a puppy and block normal processes. If a puppy becomes listless and stops feeding, check their hind quarters. Use a warm, wet cloth to loosen the hardened stool and remove it, but be prepared for an explosion.
Shallow puppy bowls should also be purchased for use when the pups begin to eat and drink on their own.
A scale, either one designed for this purpose or a postal scale should be used every day to weigh the pups. Record the weight of each puppy, and if one begins to lose weight, you will have to begin supplemental feeding right away.
Within about 2 weeks the eyes of the puppies will be open, and it will not be long before they will be able to begin eating food. Human baby food, such as rice cereal, mixed with canine formula will get the pups off to a good start, and you can then progress to puppy kibble that has been softened with warm water.
Helping to raise a litter of puppies is a lot of work, but the satisfaction you will feel at seeing those healthy, active, happy puppies makes it all worthwhile

Thursday 30 January 2014

Train Your Dog to Fetch or Retrieve

                                                   Dog Traning(Basic)




Before this Dog training is commenced it is extremely important that all dogs have reached a high standard of control.
Step -1
With other dogs present, where possible, a rolled up towel is thrown for the dog to retrieve. The handler then plays a tug of war game with the dog. This exercise is then repeated with each dog present. During this training, when in groups, all dogs will become excited, so utmost care should be taken to ensure that they are sufficiently separated, in order that they do not come into contact with one another.
Step-2
The dogs are again lined up with the trainer in front of them. The instructor (agitator) will excite the dogs with a rolled up towel, which is attached to a long lead. When he has a dog's attention, the instructor will run away dragging the towel behind him. The selected handler will release his dog with the command "fetch" and encourage the dog to retrieve the towel. The instructor will give the dog a short tug of war game before surrendering the lead to the handler who will play with the dog.
Step-3
Once the dog is proficient in this exercise, the dogs will be lined up in the same manner. The instructor will hold the towel in his hand and excite the dogs. When he runs, he will hold the towel and the handler will send his dog with the combined command "fetch rouse". When the dog reaches the instructor, the instructor will let the dog take the towel from his hand. The handler will then have a game with the dog.
Step-4
The dogs will again be required to be in a line. The trainer will attach a towel to his arm, excite the dogs and then run away. A dog will be released with the command "rouse" and will be encouraged.
Step-5
When all dogs are proficient, the trainer will exchange the towel, and the exercise will be repeated. Once the dogs have perfected the exercise, it will be advanced to the stage that they are capable of completing the exercise off lead. The object is that the dog will sit happily at heel off lead, whilst handler challenges. They must respond to all commands instantly e.g. "rouse" etc.

Pets Help People Heal

                                           Have a pet....Heal Yourself


Pets help people too when they are given the chance to do so. Many people are not aware that a lot of animals, mainly pets, are able to help people to heal in different ways. In many parts of the world we are discovering that pets are just 'not pets'. They are much more. They are a part of the family and the unit in whole.
Dogs have become the biggest helper of people. Many of which have come into the workforce without complaint. They are always willing to help no matter what job or challenge awaits them. Working dogs do not have to be any one specific breed as many would think. I have known some kindly mutts who were good enough to take time out of their busy day to help a child in need of a friend or a senior citizen just wanting to relax and be with an animal companion.
Some dogs have gone into our nations' armed forces. They help the men and women protect our land while in other countries. Many have come back with medals of honor and were able to retire upon their return.
Other dogs have taken to the streets helping their fellow officers when in need. They have become 'heroes' in their own right. They have also worked with the fire departments serving as a mascot and at times helping in rescue efforts.
Having a great 'sniffer', their nose of course, is a big deal in their world. They have helped track a lot of people who were under snow from avalanches. They have also helped find those who were in a building collapse or just plain 'stuck' somewhere. They are able to find those who may be lost. They also help us in our school systems. They are able to smell things that we cannot and therefore are good for tracking a lot of different things.
Dogs in the medical field have been trained to help the blind, to know when someone is going to have a seizure or any kind of medical emergency which may require assistance, and they have even been said to be able to sniff out cancer. Along with dogs, cats and birds have also helped out when it comes to senior citizens, the disabled and the mentally and/or physically handicapped.
This said, other animals have also come into the healing path. Some people have even been more relaxed and happier just by being able to see and watch animals that are in the wild. In theory, it doesn't really matter the kind of animal, the breed or the color. They can all help us heal in different ways within our world today.

Pet Choice-Selecting The Breed

If you’ve decided a dog is the right pet for you, congratulations. People with dogs tend to be healthier and happier, and suffer less from depression, stress, high blood pressure, heart disease, and loneliness than those without. A close relationship with a dog can provide you with years of protection, companionship, and unconditional love.
While the rewards of owning a dog are greater than any other pet, so, too, are the responsibilities. All dogs need daily outdoor exercise, regular medical check-ups, and a lot of attention from their owners. To make sure you find the perfect canine friend, it’s important to choose a dog that best fits in with your lifestyle.

 There are over 150 different types of purebred dogs, and an exponentially larger number of mixed breeds. You can narrow down your choices by realistically matching a dog’s “happiness factors” with your own. Hang around dog parks and talk to other dog owners. They can give you clues as to whether a certain type of dog will be happy with what you are able to provide.
                               
                                                      TYPES OF DOGS

  1. Herding dogs (Collies, Old English Sheepdogs, Australian Shepherds) thrive on a farm with animals to herd. To be happy and well-adjusted in an urban setting they need lots of exercise, a job to do, or to be involved in a sport such as agility or obedience.
  2. Hounds (Beagles, Bassets, Greyhounds) naturally track other animals—and humans—by smell or sight. Sight-driven dogs move quickly, their speed and stamina making them difficult to catch if they get away from you. Smell-driven dogs move more slowly, but are prone to wander off to track a scent. They can be very vocal, howling or baying.
  3. Non-Sporting dogs (Chows, Dalmatians, Poodles) seldom serve their original purposes—for example, Poodles hunted truffles, and Dalmatians were “coach dogs.” Non-sporting dogs are popular family companions when their individual activities levels and needs are a good match for those of family members’.
  4. Sporting dogs (Pointers, Retrievers, Setters, Spaniels), bred to dash around all day finding land and waterfowl for their masters, are active, alert and require daily, invigorating exercise. They like to be around people, getting lots of attention. Labrador and Golden retrievers, both members of the Sporting group, are two of the most popular family pets.
  5. Terriers (Westies, Fox Terriers, Wheatons) are energetic, tenacious, brave and determined… and they love to dig! Developed to hunt and kill rodents and foxes that raided farms, terriers are a feisty breed. Quite independent, they’re difficult to train. Although they can be friendly, loyal and stable pets, some may be “yappy” and will nip boisterous children.
  6. Toy dogs (Cavalier King Charles, Chihuahuas, Yorkshire Terriers) are bred as companions—they only want to be with you! But even lapdogs need exercise. Small and fragile, they can be excitable and yappy, and can easily get under foot. Children and the elderly must take extra care around them. Loyal and intelligent, they love to learn tricks.
  7. Working dogs (Akita, Boxer, Doberman, Great Dane, Newfoundland) are born to “work” at a specific physical job, whether it be guarding, hauling, rescuing or sledding. Many are not ideal as family pets, but can be with proper socialization and obedience training. Independent, strong willed and physically overpowering, they must be kept under control and gets lots of appropriate exercise.